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Thread: Drain holes...????

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Raystown Country, PA
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    I know some things now that I didn't know then.

    The hole at the top is a vent, and perhaps like Rick said, a test point.

    Any tube with 3 gallons of water in it has something going on, a hole or a crack somewhere, and needs more than just drained.

    Jeffery Epstein did not kill himself.
    2006 Forester 19 Fish (new deck and carpet, Pontoonstuff interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 50 ELPT4S
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper (complete rebuild from hull up, 2014)
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  2. #12
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    Jun 2004
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    6,221

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    Quote Originally Posted by moser View Post

    jeffery epstein did not kill himself.
    Rick

    St. Louis/Lake of the Ozarks

  3. #13
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    Jun 2004
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    But I do think he may been "vented" st some point..
    Rick

    St. Louis/Lake of the Ozarks

  4. #14
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    Jun 2004
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    I know they used the plugged ports for testing purposes. But I always heard they installed the vented plugs afterward to make sure the log remained at an equal pressure despite temperature (or lake water temperature) fluctuations.
    Rick

    St. Louis/Lake of the Ozarks

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL
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    My logs don't have drain plugs, just vents. I assumed the baffles were open at the tops rather than the bottoms because of that & several years ago I ran upon a wing dike which put a hole in the front of a toon. I noticed the boat didn't lean, even as it set a few days in the water before I pulled it out for repairs. This year I managed to do it again (river was a bit above flood stage, misjudged where that new dike was at, water was running fast & swirling, & I had no beer in me yet.) but on the aft end of the opposite log. The rear end normally sits low, but it doesn't appear to be much lower, nor does it lean. (I'll get it fixed when I pull it out in the Spring to power wash the logs & inspect the underside.)

    My question is, "are the baffles in 1994 Tracker pontoon baffles closed at the bottoms & open at the tops?" It seems to me that as low as my boat rides, having a hole in a pontoon which had baffles open at the bottom
    would fill a log with so much water the boat would have to lean, yet mine never did on either occasion. (It's a waste of time trying to get any information from Tracker as once the sell you a boat they don't care to bother with you. After-the-sale service is poor, to put it charitably. "That information is proprietary so we can't give it to you." Even though the boat is no longer made & they're competing with nobody)
    1994 Tracker Party Cruiser
    115 hp Merc, 2 stroke

  6. #16
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    The ones I've seen opened up had a baffle from top all the way around and open about 3/4 of an inch at he bottom. That creates partitions for sections that can flood until the water gets to the top of the 3/4 inch gap. Theoretically the only sections that can flood are the ones with a hole. I've seen an illustration showing how this works, but it was years ago. The videos from Avalon I've been seeing show a partition like I've described here welded all the way around with about a 1 inch hole at the bottom to allow small amounts to drain from section to section.

    I can see how the partitions would stop flooding in the tube, except I think the sections with a vent would continue to flood. The sections that were flooding would continue to flood until the buoyancy in the sealed sections could hold them up
    2006 Forester 19 Fish (new deck and carpet, Pontoonstuff interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 50 ELPT4S
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper (complete rebuild from hull up, 2014)
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    817

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    I'm with Rick.
    Malcolm ( Goofy )
    TAP Fins
    8525 Sylvan
    200 H O E Tec




    " Keep a fire in your heart and a smile on your face, for you never know when your leaving this place"

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Boat at Lake of the Ozarks Missouri
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    662

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    OK boys: I have an opinion, (remember, opinions are like bellybuttons, everyone has one) and a question:

    Opinion: I would assume, bad thing to do, that it would be beneficial to install a partition with a circular aluminum baffle that is welded 360 degrees. All the way around so to speak.
    This would theoretically in case of a outer skin puncture contain the water to just one section of the injured pontoon log.

    Question: If as you say there is a 3/4" opening at the bottom of the baffle OR the baffle is open at the top, what is to keep the incoming water from filling up the injured section
    and then flowing through or over topping the baffle into the next section and then to the next and the next etc. etc.

    Remember what caused the Titanic to sink ??????
    It wasn't just the incoming water into one or two sections along the gash - it was that the bulkheads did not go all the way to the top - ego not really a water tite compartment.

    What am I missing ? The logic of vented plugs on top of a 'toon for pressure equalization sound like a good idea.
    But the in 'toon baffle with an opening at the bottom or top sounds like a bad one.

    I have some engineering in my background and I don't see how the water will not infiltrate the next 'toon section.

    Make me a believer !!
    Captain Tony
    2005 Summit by Triton - 220T Platinum 3Log
    2005 115HP Mercury Optimax - 228 Marine Master Trailer
    St. Louis & Lake of the Ozarks, MO.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL
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    "Opinion: I would assume, bad thing to do, that it would be beneficial to install a partition with a circular aluminum baffle that is welded 360 degrees. All the way around so to speak.
    This would theoretically in case of a outer skin puncture contain the water to just one section of the injured pontoon log."

    The baffled sections can't be sealed unless they were filled with nitrogen. Otherwise on a really cold day the sections would collapse inward from the low pressure inside vs the high pressure outside the log.

    "Question: If as you say there is a 3/4" opening at the bottom of the baffle OR the baffle is open at the top, what is to keep the incoming water from filling up the injured section
    and then flowing through or over topping the baffle into the next section and then to the next and the next etc. etc."

    This is why I posed my question, suspecting that my baffles are open at the top. If the baffles are open at the top, the water in that cell would only reach as high as the level of the pontoon resting in the water: it couldn't reach the top to fill the next cell.

    If a leak occurs in a pontoon with the baffles open at the bottom, water would fill that cell until the air pressure above the water in the cell equalized the pressure of the water entering it. (Which would depend upon the weight resting on the log) But it wouldn't only do this for one cell, it would do it to all the cells. That should give the boat a noticeable lean, unless the boat was taken out of the water soon after the non-standard, user-installed hole was added.

    Several years back (before I got a map of the river) I ran upon a wing dike & put a hole in the front of my starboard log. Once I backed off the dike, I immediately headed towards shore. But I noticed the boat wasn't sinking. (This is my first boat & I didn't know how they were made) Staying near shore, I kept heading for home (which with my under-powered slug took another 2 hours. On the Fast setting.) Reaching my slip I noticed the boat had no list. It stayed in the water another day before I was able to get it out, still not listing.

    This year, I managed to get hung up on another (new) wing dike (flood stage, swirling currents, & no beer in me yet [which I suspect was the cause of the problem]) which certainly must have punctured a log. Hung up on the dike, the boat was listing at a 20 degree angle in the front (aft end was about 30 degrees), so I have no doubt that I installed an unapproved hole in the aft end of my port log.

    The aft end of my pontoons sit about 18" deep in the water (it's a heavy boat). The boat is still in the water 5 months after the installation of the after-market hole & not listing. If my baffles were open at the bottom, the boat should be leaning seriously to port, but it's not. It is for this reason that I suspect my baffles are open at the top. But I don't know that for certain, I'm just applying the basic physics I was taught in high school. (Which might very well have changed. I can attest that gravity has increased since 1977.)

    The Titanic sank because more cells were ripped open than the engineers designed the ship to take. And the metallurgy wasn't up to grade: the hull was more brittle than the specs called for. (This was learned from the Titanic's sister ship the Olympic)

    "What am I missing ? The logic of vented plugs on top of a 'toon for pressure equalization sound like a good idea. But the in 'toon baffle with an opening at the bottom or top sounds like a bad one."

    That's exactly my opinion & is why I believe my baffles are open at the top.
    1994 Tracker Party Cruiser
    115 hp Merc, 2 stroke

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raystown Country, PA
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    Think of each section with an opening at the bottom as if it were an upside down glass. It is sealed on all sides and the top, and can only fill until it reaches the bottom of the baffle, then it is like the upside down glass and will stop flooding at that point, this is true for every section except the one with the hole (which will fill to the hole) and the one with the vent (which will fill until the others can hold it up and keep it from filling any further.). The baffle is open at the bottom to allow all the sections to vent thru one vent when they are empty, and drain to the rear (otherwise to drain a tube you'd have to poke a hole in each section).

    Take 4 empty beer cans and poke a hole in the bottom end of them at the same spot as the pop top.

    Tape them all together with all the holes lined up. You have just built a model of the pontoon tube I've seen opened up.

    Place them in a tub of water and push them down lightly to try to sink them, but keep them level.

    They will fill until they reach the top of the holes and then they will trap air and stop filling and remain buoyant.

    If you put a vent in one can, the vented section will fill as long as you force it underwater. If you don't force it and can keep the holes down, it will fill until the buoyancy from the good sections can carry it.

    If you seal up the pop top hole in the front can the tube you create will be just like a pontoon boat tube, an airtight sectioned tube with a vent on top to let the tube equalize atmosperically, but with seperate sections that will remain airtight if one is punctured.

    If the baffles are open at the top, the unbreached sections will not fill, but you could not drain the tube thru a common drain plug, at the bottom and rear of the tube. If you want to drain the whole tube, you must let the sections drain into each other, via an opening at the bottom of the baffle.
    2006 Forester 19 Fish (new deck and carpet, Pontoonstuff interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 50 ELPT4S
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper (complete rebuild from hull up, 2014)
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

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