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Thread: How to get motor ready for winter. ??

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Live in the Raeford NC area.

    Default How to get motor ready for winter. ??

    I've seen countless videos on YTube about winterizing OB motors and I have read as many articles on the subject as well.

    Fogging....changing oil....treating gas....and a few other things seems to be what most do...or used to do.

    Recently I have read a couple of articles indicating the new 4 stroke motors do not need to be fogged or run out of gas. Both would actually be detrimental to the engine.

    Just had a conversation with a Suzuki dealer in Bath, NC and he indicated the "best" thing to do was just run the motor every couple of weeks with non eth fuel that has had stabilizer added. But if I was going to "fog" it, I would have better protection by taking out the plugs, shoot the spray directly in, put the plug back in, turn over the motor, pull plugs and spray again.

    What say you?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Denver, North Carolina


    Our boat sits on a lift and I don't fog. I use pure gas with stabil all the time and don't worry about it. It has sat for 6 months and started right up. Don't waste your money.
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    Carl & Suzi
    2007 Bennington 2275rl tri-toon
    150 Honda 15x15p Enertia
    Power assisted steering
    Beautiful Lake Norman
    Pleiku Vietnam 1971
    Agent Orange

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2004


    I add stabilizer on the last outing of the year to make sure it gets completely into the system. I change the engine oil and the lower unit lube. I don't fog mine, but some recommend it. I would not take the dealers advice on running it every couple of weeks, unless you can warm up the engine real well. Condensation from a short warm up in cool weather can cause more harm than good.

    St. Louis/Lake of the Ozarks

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Boat at Lake of the Ozarks Missouri


    Hey Rich:

    The best procedure I've found for 2 stokes or 4 stokes is to
    1) Either fill the gas tank to avoid any condensation on the walls of the tank OR drain the tank down to the final 2 or 3 gallons.
    2) Be sure to use a fuel stabilizer in either situation.
    3) Drain the lower unit oil to check for water in the lube [or if it has been more than 1 season - look for metal shavings or dirty oil] replace with manf. recommended oil only.
    4) On 2 stokes no engine oil change, (loss system) on 4 strokes, change engine oil & filter. Don't skimp on price, buy the good stuff.
    5) Fogging or not ? 2 stokes, yes - 4 stokes, your choice.
    6) Plugs will last a few seasons But it wouldn't hurt to pull them the first season to check the burning color - light tan to medium brown.
    If the plugs look too black or sooty, they are gas fouling - too light or white they are too hot, (you can burn a hole in a piston)
    consult someone knowledgeable about the plugs if you have any doubts. Oh yes, don't forget to remove the battery & trickle charge it over the winter.
    Use a set of "earmuffs" or flush hose on the outboard to run clean water through the passages after hauling out for the season, then drain it;
    on 2 stokes, they will drain all water in the block if stored vertical - on 4 strokes, there is usually a water drain plug but vertical storage is still a good idea.

    Are you storing outside on a trailer or inside under roof and enclosed walls ?
    Send Pictures - we like photos. Good Luck
    Last edited by Captain Tony; 10-18-2018 at 09:45 AM. Reason: updating
    Captain Tony
    2005 Summit by Triton - 220T Platinum 3Log
    2005 115HP Mercury Optimax - 228 Marine Master Trailer
    St. Louis & Lake of the Ozarks, MO.

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