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Thread: Simplifying battery wiring?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Huntsville, East Texas
    Posts
    28

    Default Simplifying battery wiring?

    I'm looking to simplify my battery wiring in the battery compartment on my 18' Bass Buggy. The battery lives in a deep triangular tub at the aft. The aft livewell is inboard of it and the skin surrounds it on two sides.

    The cables are two 6 ga battery cables and plus a smaller ga cable to each post. I want to devise a narrow acx plywood shelf inside the tub to mount two 4-post power distr blocks plus a kill switch. I'll run the existing wiring to each block, then short battery cables from the blocks to the battery with the kill switch on one cable. This will make swapping out the battery much easier as one short cable will stay attached to each post on the battery as I put it in and pull it out.

    Questions:
    • What ga cables do I use?
    • Do I need to add any fuses?
    • Which cable does the kill switch go on?
    • Suggestions for attaching the shelf please? I don't want to damage/disassemble the livewell or exterior skin

    Thanks
    2021 18' Sun Tracker Bass Buggy
    60 hp Merc
    Lake Livingston, East Texas

    1980-ish 10' Sunfisher
    55# MotorGuide
    Camelia Lake, Huntsville, East Texas

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    215

    Default

    It’s a shame this thread didn’t receive more timely attention for a response. I’m sorry to say I quit visiting these forums for awhile because so little goes on here. The web host and moderators really need to “get on the stick” and see to appointing a moderator who will be active and participate more.

    As for your modification: I suggest you plan to place your “kill switch” on the GROUND terminal/cable of your battery.
    The size/gauge of cables should be dictated by the highest current demand expected. As an example, I suggest 4-ga cable as a minimum for short runs of less than 3 feet, and 2 ga for longer runs, up to twelve feet. If you wish to have a “fuse” you might install either a “fusible link” or you can install a heavy-duty window-fuse in the appropriate rating such as this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Hope this helps.
    2015 SouthBay 522FCR w/150 Yamaha

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raystown Country, PA
    Posts
    2,337

    Default

    Someone looks in and checks new posts just about every day, sadly the forum like most forums has slowed down in recent years and does not have 3000 viewers or 150 new posts every day. I apologize for having missed this post. Foghorn, we appreciate you having looked around enough to bring it to light.

    Since you are not moving the battery very far, I would use the same gauge wire that is there now. I put fuses as close to the battery as possible and would do the same with the kill switch. I figure if I interupt the circuit at the battery, nothing that happens downstream can create a short. On my trolling motor 24 volts setup, I have a 12 to 48 volt, 50 amp manual reset circuit breaker, mounted to the 24v hot wire right on the battery terminal. I used a short 3 inch copper strip, 3/4 inch wide X 1/8 inch thick with a 3/8 hole on each end to mount the breaker to the battery. You could use a short jumper wire, but I like having the breaker right at the battery post. I have to turn this circuit off or it kills the batteries running the GPS in the trolling motor. When I'm done for the day, I push the test button on the circuit breaker and it pops the breaker, opening the circuit and shutting everything down, the circuit breaker is my kill switch. When I'm ready to go again, I reset the breaker and everything powers back up. In your application it would need to be a big 50 amp breaker, because you will be starting the motor through it. Since you intend to leave a short length of cable on the battery, that supports the need for a fuse/breaker right at the battery post, in case those leads should somehow get together in transit. Those short leads are something I would do without if you can, if they are long enough for one to touch the post it is not hooked to they, are not safe. You could also use one of the battery disconnects like I show in the link, to make the battery change quick and safe.

    On my pontoon starting battery I have a NASCAR style kill swith on a very short wire right at the hot post of the battery.

    https://www.amazon.com/Jeemiter-Circ...NrPXRydWU&th=1

    https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disco...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

    https://www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTec...80103697&psc=1
    1992 Tracker Party barge 24 (new deck, carpet and interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 115 ELPTO
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

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