Pontoon boat and deck boat magazine
home
+ Reply to Thread
Page 2 of 2
FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Fuel Gauge not working then it is?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raystown Country, PA
    Posts
    2,261

    Default

    Splices and butt connectors are usually frowned upon, but I have spliced two wires together and put marine heat shrink on them occasionally. I would unplug each one of those and inspect it, then clean it up and plug them back together abd leav them alone, they will probably work good for years
    2006 Forester 19 Fish (new deck and carpet, Pontoonstuff interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 50 ELPT4S
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper (complete rebuild from hull up, 2014)
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Boat at Lake of the Ozarks Missouri
    Posts
    680

    Default

    Hey J:

    When you say splice, are you referring to cutting off the spade terminal, stripping an inch or so from the wire and wrapping it around the terminal on the sender ??

    If so, I'd advise you to simply replace the spade or forked terminal with a soldered on OR crimped on spade/forked replacement. And be sure to use some dielectric
    grease on the end of the wire before crimping on the connector. Dielectric grease, is a silicone-based grease that repels moisture and protects electrical connections against corrosion.

    This will be a more permanent cure than splicing the wire to the connection.

    Also as Moser stated, RTV compound on the finished connection will protect it against future corrosion. Glad you found the root cause/
    Captain Tony
    2005 Summit by Triton - 220T Platinum 3Log
    2005 115HP Mercury Optimax - 228 Marine Master Trailer
    St. Louis & Lake of the Ozarks, MO.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    122

    Default

    Some installations also have a plug-connector somewhere along the harness between the sending unit and the gauge which can become corroded. Cleaning that and all the terminals with electronic cleaner (I use CRC aerosol in a red can from WalMart automotive dept because it won’t harm plastics) and THEN... coat the terminals with dielectric-grease such as Dow Corning DC4...before reconnecting them and before re-plugging the connectors back together. (We do this on airplane systems which are exposed to rain, ice, etc. It also works well to put a “dab” onto your spin-on oil filter gasket instead of the recommended grease or oil usually printed on the filter. Grease/Oil will “coke” from heat and actually STICK the filter making it hard to remove. The reason they want you to lubricate it during installation is to prevent the twisting action from dislodging the gasket during install. The DC4 won’t make it stick...and the filter will remove much easier when it’s time.)

    Back to your fuel gauge: The sending unit is basically a rheostat that inserts a resistance into the gauge circuit. An “open” circuit USUALLY equates to an Empty indication, and a resistance more than 100 ohms leads to a Full indication. I say USUALLY...because some mfr’s reverse that matter. Ford has Full equal high resistance...GM does the opposite... but you can figure this out really easy... disconnect the sending unit wire and connect it to ground and see where your gauge indicates.
    If the gauge intermittently indicates “E” with a full tank, then there may be either a short OR an open circuit...depending upon whether high resistance equals a full or if it equals an empty tank.
    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by FogHorn; 04-26-2021 at 05:52 AM. Reason: Spelling
    2015 SouthBay 522FCR w/150 Yamaha

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raystown Country, PA
    Posts
    2,261

    Default

    Very good description Foghorn, thank you, the different resistance gauges can be found in outboards too, OMC and Merc tilt/trim gauges read backwards from each other.
    2006 Forester 19 Fish (new deck and carpet, Pontoonstuff interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 50 ELPT4S
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper (complete rebuild from hull up, 2014)
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  5. #15

    lol

    Back to these issues... I did see a spade connector between the sender and gauge that when I cleaned it seemed to work for a while. Now the gauge is acting up again. Can I just splice the wires together and cover instead of continually cleaning that connection? I can solder/use waterproof connectors as needed... Just want to get the issue permanently resolved..

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    122

    Default

    You can certainly replace a connector with one you prefer...or make a permanent joint should you wish (and if willing to accept that permanence). If you are certain it’s the spade connector you might consider using dielectric grease to prevent the “tarnish” or corrosion which may be plaguing you. Solder and shrink-wrap is also fine, I’m sure.
    2015 SouthBay 522FCR w/150 Yamaha

  7. #17

    Default

    Good thank you for that. I grew up in the car audio and electronics days so I always prefer solid runs of cable as opposed to connectors. Plus in this instance, it seems to be a no brainer. Could also use grease but even the grease needs some degree of maintenance IMO

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts