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Thread: Water in Logs, Confusing Issue...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2020
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    Dallas/Fort Worth
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    Default Water in Logs, Confusing Issue...

    Hi all, thanks in advance for looking at this... I'm going to paint the best picture I can of the issue:

    I've owned a G3 V322RF since 2017 when I bought it new, never had any sort of flotation issues. The other day I decided to change out the plastic drain plugs to brass ones that I could easily remove/reinstall. In drilling out the old plastic plugs, this is the water that came out of the log approximately 3 weeks ago:

    https://vimeo.com/573020753

    This same amount approximately came out on each side. It SEEMS like a lot, but after having the boat for four years, this is what was inside. ALSO, not sure if it's worth noting but when I looked into the rear of the hole, there is foam blocks inside of the log on each side(there appeared to be a channel at the bottom middle for water to flow).

    The other day I brought the boat off the water after scraping some gravel so I thought I should open the drain plugs just to check if there was any water coming out. Well sure enough, there was a TON of water the drained out, just like the video above. I'm sure there isn't some sort of "base water level" in these things, so where is the water coming from?

    I got below the boat on the trailer just to look around and noticed there seems to be gaps in the pontoon logs and the metal plate on top of the logs. I'm not sure if this is contributing to the issue, but I'm trying to isolate the trouble without having to bring it to a dealer. I also noted that there is a pressure equalization tube(don't know the exact name) on each pontoon log on the top and front of them. Here are a few pictures with what I am seeing pointed out... hopefully someone has seen something like this or has some familiarity with the issue. Thanks again in advance!

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  2. #2
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    Default

    Well, it’s pretty clear your tubes are NOT completely sealed. They “may” be open-topped and the mfr’r expected the deck to complete the closure…. which isn’t foolproof.

    It might be a good idea for you to regularly drain your tubes at the end of each outing. I suspect the foam inside the tubes is in order to meet the Coast Guard flotation requirements of an ordinary hull since your tubes are not completely closed. (You might consider a ball-valve installation instead of a plug so you can drain it more conveniently each time?)

  3. #3
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    Jul 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by FogHorn View Post
    Well, it’s pretty clear your tubes are NOT completely sealed. They “may” be open-topped and the mfr’r expected the deck to complete the closure…. which isn’t foolproof.

    It might be a good idea for you to regularly drain your tubes at the end of each outing. I suspect the foam inside the tubes is in order to meet the Coast Guard flotation requirements of an ordinary hull since your tubes are not completely closed. (You might consider a ball-valve installation instead of a plug so you can drain it more conveniently each time?)
    When I feel the top of the tubes, they appear to have covering on the top, but it is the upper lip of the metal in the pics I sent. It's almost as though they did a very poor job of attaching the top sealing plate to the log....but there are so many gaps along the top, I can't imagine this was.done by fault.

    So now that we've identified that I don't have fully sealed tubes, the obvious (and important) question comes up .. is there any risk to this? I can't imagine so since this was like this for four years without me draining anything... But figured it worth asking.

    Should I try to seal the tops where those gaps are? Or just leave it alone and drain regularly? The manufacturer is G3 Boats, if that helps identify common manufacturer practices perhaps.

  4. #4
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    Aug 2019
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    If my investigation on my boat discovered a shortcoming… I’d probably try to fix it myself if it’s outside any warranty period.
    With that in-mind… I don’t see any downside to your using a good quality RTV or sealant to seal those gaps and possibly reduce the amount of water ingestion…. but still plan to drain it regularly.

  5. #5
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    Jul 2020
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    Actually it appears I have U shaped logs with closed cell foam per this page: https://www.pdbmagazine.com/2015/05/...-catcher-v-322. Although I have a 2017, I assume most specs are the same.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Raystown Country, PA
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    Most U shaped logs are foam filled. First thing I would do here is look at the manufacturers hull warranty, and see if it is transferable, most are at least 10 years and many are transferable. I would do that by contacting the manufacturer first, not a deraler, the dealer may not want to be bothered. A conversation with someone in customer service at the manufacturers could answer a lot of questions for you andf maybe lead you to a solutoon.

    When my Tracker tubes started to leak on the new boat I bought in 2000, I thought I would end up with a big bill. Turned out the hull has a lifetime warrqanty to the first 2 owners, and Tracker took care of the entire repair at no cost to me at all. That boat was about 3 years old, when the issue started.
    1992 Tracker Party barge 24 (new deck, carpet and interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 115 ELPTO
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  7. #7
    funtooner Guest

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    Welds do and things will Brake or crack, that's why we have people to weld stuff .!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Others have issues as well 2021 weld split open..jpg   See what to look for on welds 2021.jpg  
    Last edited by funtooner; 08-05-2021 at 06:40 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Boat at Lake of the Ozarks Missouri
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    Hey J:
    Well it is a bit difficult to tell from your photos BUT it appears to be unfinished welds at the top outside edges of the log.
    These are like the Playcraft logs I had on a 24 foot 'toon and yes they have U shaped logs with closed cell foam inside.

    Two options present themselves,

    1. have someone Mig/Tig weld the aluminum so they are closed; if this is twin toon boat then
    have the welder check for similar openings in the inside toon tops & weld as before.

    2. if in the 4 years you have owned the boat how much on the water time has it had and
    do you think the water drained is significant OR ? It might have been good to place a bucket under
    the drain to gage the actual volume of water. I.E. 2 quarts, 4 quarts or more etc. ?

    It may be preferable to just use the boat and drain at the end of season if its not taking
    it on heavily. I know that sounds like the wrong way to keep a boat from sinking but
    depending on the quantity, it may not really be an issue.

    Let us know what you find out.
    Captain Tony
    2005 Summit by Triton - 220T Platinum 3Log
    2005 115HP Mercury Optimax - 228 Marine Master Trailer
    St. Louis & Lake of the Ozarks, MO.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    I would also consider running some dry, low pressure air in a vent and out the drain to try to pull some of the moisture out of the foam. Foam filled tubes as a rule don't take to welding very well.
    Last edited by Moser; 08-04-2021 at 11:48 AM.
    1992 Tracker Party barge 24 (new deck, carpet and interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 115 ELPTO
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Raystown Country, PA
    Posts
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    Very low pressure and in one hole and out another, don't put any pressure above a few PSI in a tube, they will pop at a seam. I would just try to get some dry air moving around the inside of the tube, to dry out the foam a little.
    1992 Tracker Party barge 24 (new deck, carpet and interior, 2019)
    1996 Mercury 115 ELPTO
    1983 Sea Nymph FM171 Striper
    1985 Johnson 70 J70ELCO

    Raystown Country, PA

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